An airlock is inserted in the top of a fermenter and allows carbon dioxide, a byproduct of fermentation, to escape the fermenter without letting contaminants in. Depending on the fermenter, a bung is sometimes needed to secure the airlock. Without an airlock, pressure in the fermenter could cause the lid or bung to pop off, or worse, the fermenter to explode, leaving you with a sad mess. Depending on the batch size, a 1. The stove in your kitchen should suffice for smaller amounts, while a turkey fryer or another powerful heat source works well for larger batches.
A siphon and tubing is a great way to streamline moving hot wort or finished beer around without the hassle and mess of lifting and pouring and spilling! Quick tip: an auto-siphon is a type of siphon that creates a vacuum to pump liquid from one vessel to another without introducing too much oxygen or other contaminants into the beer.
There are homebrew-specific cleaners available that you can find at your local homebrew shop, but unscented dish cleaner also works. Avoid products with scents, which can stick around after cleaning and cause off-flavors and aromas in your beer. Different than cleaner, sanitizer ensures there are no microorganisms that could spoil the goods on your brewing equipment after you clean. There are homebrew-specific, no-rinse sanitizers available at your homebrew shop, but a proper dilution of 1 oz.
A hydrometer is used to measure the gravity, or sugar density in wort and beer. During the mash and boil, stirring is usually required for a variety of reasons. Any spoon capable of reaching the bottom of your brew pot and mash tun will suffice. Plastic, wooden, and stainless steel spoons are all commonly used.
When transferring racking the wort from the brew pot to the fermenter, some homebrewers choose to run the liquid through a strainer to prevent hops and other solids from being transferred. A fine-meshed colander or straining bag will do the trick. Be sure to acquire a calibrated thermometer that can withstand high temperatures. The ideal BIAB bag fits around the circumference of your brew pot without resting on the bottom to prevent scorching does it smell like something is burning?
The bag will hold most of the grain sediment. You may purchase pre-made bags at your local homebrew store, but many homebrewers put that DIY attitude to use and make their own. All-Grain Brew in a Bag Tutorial. A mash tun is used to hold heated water and grain at a specific temperature during the mash and to separate wort from the grains. An additional pot is used to prepare sparge water in all-grain brewing.
You add sparge water to the mash tun to rinse the grain of any sugars left behind after you initially drain wort from the mash. For a litre batch, this is g of sugar with ml of water. Pour this into the second vessel and then decant the beer in with it, taking care to leave the sediment behind and avoiding any splashing of the beer. Filling is most easily done with a bottle filling stick attached to the tap.
It should come with a length of flexible plastic hose that you can fix the bottle stick to. With both methods, you want to avoid drawing off any of the murky sediment at the bottom — there will be enough yeast in the beer already, so all that sediment will do is impair the flavour. Once filled halfway up the neck, the bottle should be capped. A hand capper is notably cheaper than a fixed capper. Standard crown caps in the UK are 26mm, although Belgian style bottles use larger ones.
Work through the filling and capping as best suits you, but we find resting the caps over the bottle tops as we go, and then capping them on properly once all the filling is done works best.
If you can get a second person to help, then you can get a neat production line going which saves time and effort. If you happen to be able to get your hands on flip-top style beer bottles, they are a great labour saver. Remember that you have to pay close attention to the rubber seal on the top when sanitising the bottle. Once filled, capped and wiped down, the bottles need a couple of days in a mild place C , like for the fermentation, and then if you have it, somewhere cool for at least a fortnight.
For any but the lightest beers, they improve over the next few months, remain tasty for at least six, and are best drunk within twelve. That, in a nutshell, is all you need to make a litre batch of beer with a minimum of equipment. Once you have the equipment, every batch after that can reuse the kit, further reducing the cost. If it takes your fancy, you can make your own recipes rather than use kits, and if you move beyond malt extract to grain, the possibilities are endless.
Read up on how to clean brewing equipment and our top home-brewing safety tips to master your craft. Check out our top tips from an expert to ensure every brew is top-notch. How to clean brewing equipment Home-brewing safety tips Hom- brewing: Top tips from an expert How to make kombucha The health benefits of fermenting Elderflower wine recipe Elderflower champagne recipe.
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